I found the iCade buttons far too noisy and clicky so I've replaced the microswitches with GroovyGameGear's micro-leaf microswitches. They replace the iCade's microswitches using the original buttons so it is easy to do. The difference is dramatic, they feel like original arcade leaf buttons, i.e. quiet, quick and no click. Now I've done those the joystick could do with the switches replacing but these micro-leaf ones don't fit that. Here's what the button wiring looks like. It's simply a matter of removing the microswitches and replacing them with the micro-leaf switches. To attach the new micro-leaf's attach one end vertically, push down the switches metal arm with something like a screwdriver, otherwise the metal arm may break, and turn the micro-leaf until it clicks into the other mount. Push down the metal connectors and then attach the wires.
Just a few more questions: - which size are the buttons? 24mm or 30mm? - are they snap-in or screw-in? They look screw-in, but I may be wrong. I know you just changed the switches, but since I see plugs (and a standard stick), I may change the whole set altogether.
Think they're 24mm. They are standard screw on bolts. I did buy some "Arcade Prime" buttons from GGG with the micro-leafs but the buttons were a bit too long for the case. Here's a comparison pic with the original iCade button on the left. I'm guessing the joystick is a standard fit. I would like a quieter one, but I think just the microswitches could be changed for quieter ones, GGG do some but I don't know how much quieter they would be and they'd need soldering on.
Is it possible to make the stick 4-way instead of 8-way? That would be much better for a lot of retro games. Err... actually I'm just presuming it's 8-way. I don't have an iCade (yet).
Dunno about this particular joystick, but the restrictor gate (the transparent plastic part) seems similar to a Sanwa joystick. In that case, restricting it to 4-way is pretty simple: pop the transparent part (push the little black prongs for it), and re-push it after turning it 45° (the square where the stick rests should be a diamond now). Tada, 4-way stick. edit: I opened my iCade, the stick/gate do not allow this. You'll have to change the gate, and maybe the stick. And this requires soldering. And for Squid123: I found another thread on Shoryuken which details the button references. And on Lizardlick, they even give the dimensions. I may have to Dremel a bit the button holes to add 30mm ones. Or try to see if 24mm can fit okay.
Thanks for this. The clicking of the buttons drove me a bit mad. I've just ordered a set of switches as this seems like a technical modification I can manage! Now let's see how long they take to ship to the UK....
I opened it up yesterday, and placed an order after a few tests. I went with what is called "full-Sanwa": 8 OSBF-30 buttons, and a JLF-TP stick (and an extra orthogonal gate, since I love those). Here's what I modified: - the holes are 28mm, the Sanwa buttons require 30mm. I used a pair of scissors and sandpaper to enlarge the holes a couple of millimeters. I tried with one of my old Sanwa buttons, it fits perfectly. The "crown" is smaller too, and they're very soft and quiet. - for the stick, I don't have it yet, but it uses a 5-pin connector with 5 cables (up, down, left, right, ground). I'll cut the current cables, and use a screw terminal (those chocolate bar thingies) to join the cables. Since I would probably screw up any soldering attempt. I also plan to make templates for side, bottom and panel art, so that I can go to a Kinko's equivalent and print new art. I'll keep you posted if you want them.
Okay, got them on Saturday, and upgraded right away. First, enlarging the holes: the sandpaper worked fine, and having a Sanwa button alongside to test, I managed to do the 8 of them in about an hour. I also enlarged the hole for the stick a little bit (it was a few mm too small), and most importantly, I rotated the PCB 90° by: - removing the gate restrictor - removing the PCB, and putting it back after turning it, - put back the gate restrictor. I put the terminal on top, but you can also choose to direct it to the bottom (just invert the directions in the next step). http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27482871/IMG_0519.JPG For the stick cables, I checked the cables, and put this terminal: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27482871/IMG_0520.JPG Black cable of any direction is used as the common ground, and white for each direction. Then, voilà, it was done! http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27482871/IMG_0522.jpg I also spent the weekend on making a template for the sides, the panel at the bottom and the control panel. I'll do another post when those are here.
Any chance on anyone making a video for how to swap these out? I'd love to do this just wanna make sure I don't screw it up.
When you "rotated" the PCB, I assume the wiring changes for the microswitches? I guess it's as simple as using a multimeter to figure out which is which? I'm going to give your mod a go... also add a marquee to the iCade with a LED backlight. *Edit* Also which stick did you order (8Y, 8S or SK?)? http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/ordersanwajoysticks.php
I'm also in the market for a replacement stick. one person on the shoryuken thread had luck with this one. http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-JLF-TM-8T-SK-Joystick_p_258.html I believe he just removed the mounting plate. "The joystick was a Sanwa JLF, or a cheap knockoff, as it had a lot of wiggle dead zone before it came in contact with a switch. There was no branding on the plastic. I replaced the stick with a Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK Joystick, removing the mounting plate to install it. Resoldered the wiring to the switches, and bam, works so much better now." -Jelloman581
+1! The stock stick is ok but I'd like to try one of those "high end" sticks. Unfortunately it is unclear to me which one will fit the iCade best. Any feedback would be really appreciated!
Is it easy to open the iCade up? I'd like to try the microswitch swap out. Not sure if I'm up for the more extensive mods you folks are talking about. Scary.
There's 2 security screws on the case. That's the only hard part to opening it. I ended up breaking the center pin and then using a small torx screwdriver to remove them. Can't remember what size I used though. sorry. On a different note, I finished modding my iCade yesterday. All Sanwa parts now. URGHH... there was thread lock on the 4 screws holding JLF to the original flat mounting plate. Took me a few hours to finally get them out. Other than that, the project was super easy.
I used a SANWA JLF-TP-8YT-SK. Also you need to sand the joystick hole in the case a little. It's just a few MM too small. I just sanded it for a few seconds with a dremel and all was good. The 4 mounting plate screw holes in the JLF match perfectly with iCase. Just be warned you'll need to find a way to remove the thread lock from the JLF before removing the mounting plate. I didn't notice it before I started and ended up striping the screws. URGH.. took forever to remove then.
Or just get one without the plate http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/JLF-TP-8Y-SK.htm Modding mine tomorrow/Thurs. Currently looking at getting some custom decals printed up too.
Whaaa? yeah, that would helped. lol. Make sure to share pics when you add the decals. Would love to see. Also if you don't already have it. Here's the template for the sides of the iCade. http://www.thinkgeek.com/files/11-10-03-icade-template.pdf
@Lions Thanks for sharing!! All Sanwa parts now? Nice! Which buttons did you choose? Sanwa OBSF-30? Did you sand the button holes as well? I am a little worried that these bigger buttons may not fit the casing as the smaller stock buttons seem to be realtively close to each other already... but obviously it does work, right? As for the stick, did you solder the wires or did you use a screw joint / wire connector thing? How did you know which wire is which direction? Try and error? Did you have to rotate the PCB by 90° as Nudgenudge was describing before in this thread? Thanks for your help!! edit: BTW, how do you like the Sanwa stuff in comparison to the stock controls? Is it worth it?
No, the wiring did not change. I found a guide on Shoryuken: http://media.photobucket.com/image/sanwa%20guide%20shoryuken/rtdzign/Misc/JoystickWiringGuide.jpg It's perfect to tell you which cables go for each direction. For the stick, I bought a JLF-TP-8Y, no plate. I just enlarged the circle in the panel's plastic with sandpaper to fit it nicely. MarkHerm: the buttons on my picture (and I'm pretty sure, Lions') are OSBF-30s. The crown is just a bit larger, but nothing too big. Also, Sanwa parts are just pure awesomeness compared to the stock ones: no clunky sound, no deadzone. And for the wires: on the Sanwa part, easy, I posted the guide. On the white iCade cables, it is written on the PCB.