iCade button customisation.

01-08-2012, 11:24 AM
#11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nudgenudge View Post
Okay, got them on Saturday, and upgraded right away.

First, enlarging the holes: the sandpaper worked fine, and having a Sanwa button alongside to test, I managed to do the 8 of them in about an hour.

I also enlarged the hole for the stick a little bit (it was a few mm too small), and most importantly, I rotated the PCB 90 by:
- removing the gate restrictor
- removing the PCB, and putting it back after turning it,
- put back the gate restrictor.
I put the terminal on top, but you can also choose to direct it to the bottom (just invert the directions in the next step).

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27482871/IMG_0519.JPG

For the stick cables, I checked the cables, and put this terminal:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27482871/IMG_0520.JPG

Black cable of any direction is used as the common ground, and white for each direction.

Then, voil, it was done!
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/27482871/IMG_0522.jpg

I also spent the weekend on making a template for the sides, the panel at the bottom and the control panel. I'll do another post when those are here.
When you "rotated" the PCB, I assume the wiring changes for the microswitches? I guess it's as simple as using a multimeter to figure out which is which? I'm going to give your mod a go... also add a marquee to the iCade with a LED backlight.

*Edit* Also which stick did you order (8Y, 8S or SK?)? http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/or...ajoysticks.php

Last edited by mremulator; 01-08-2012 at 11:40 AM.
01-09-2012, 05:30 PM
#12
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 690
I'm also in the market for a replacement stick. one person on the shoryuken thread had luck with this one. http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-JLF-...ick_p_258.html
I believe he just removed the mounting plate.


"The joystick was a Sanwa JLF, or a cheap knockoff, as it had a lot of wiggle dead zone before it came in contact with a switch. There was no branding on the plastic. I replaced the stick with a Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK Joystick, removing the mounting plate to install it. Resoldered the wiring to the switches, and bam, works so much better now." -Jelloman581

Battle Born Music
gamecenter name = battlebornmusic.com

01-09-2012, 06:37 PM
#13
Quote:
Originally Posted by BATTLE BORN View Post
I'm also in the market for a replacement stick.
+1! The stock stick is ok but I'd like to try one of those "high end" sticks. Unfortunately it is unclear to me which one will fit the iCade best. Any feedback would be really appreciated!
01-10-2012, 09:53 AM
#14
Is it easy to open the iCade up? I'd like to try the microswitch swap out. Not sure if I'm up for the more extensive mods you folks are talking about. Scary.
01-10-2012, 10:10 AM
#15
Quote:
Originally Posted by crunc View Post
Is it easy to open the iCade up? I'd like to try the microswitch swap out. Not sure if I'm up for the more extensive mods you folks are talking about. Scary.
There's 2 security screws on the case. That's the only hard part to opening it. I ended up breaking the center pin and then using a small torx screwdriver to remove them. Can't remember what size I used though. sorry.


On a different note, I finished modding my iCade yesterday. All Sanwa parts now. URGHH... there was thread lock on the 4 screws holding JLF to the original flat mounting plate. Took me a few hours to finally get them out.

Other than that, the project was super easy.


Last edited by Lions; 01-10-2012 at 10:38 AM. Reason: added pic
01-10-2012, 10:20 AM
#16
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkHerm View Post
+1! The stock stick is ok but I'd like to try one of those "high end" sticks. Unfortunately it is unclear to me which one will fit the iCade best. Any feedback would be really appreciated!
I used a SANWA JLF-TP-8YT-SK. Also you need to sand the joystick hole in the case a little. It's just a few MM too small. I just sanded it for a few seconds with a dremel and all was good. The 4 mounting plate screw holes in the JLF match perfectly with iCase. Just be warned you'll need to find a way to remove the thread lock from the JLF before removing the mounting plate. I didn't notice it before I started and ended up striping the screws. URGH.. took forever to remove then.
01-10-2012, 10:30 AM
#17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lions View Post
I used a SANWA JLF-TP-8YT-SK. Also you need to sand the joystick hole in the case a little. It's just a few MM too small. I just sanded it for a few seconds with a dremel and all was good. The 4 mounting plate screw holes in the JLF match perfectly with iCase. Just be warned you'll need to find a way to remove the thread lock from the JLF before removing the mounting plate. I didn't notice it before I started and ended up striping the screws. URGH.. took forever to remove then.
Or just get one without the plate

http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/pr...F-TP-8Y-SK.htm

Modding mine tomorrow/Thurs. Currently looking at getting some custom decals printed up too.
01-10-2012, 10:45 AM
#18
Quote:
Originally Posted by mremulator View Post
Or just get one without the plate

http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/pr...F-TP-8Y-SK.htm

Modding mine tomorrow/Thurs. Currently looking at getting some custom decals printed up too.
Whaaa? yeah, that would helped. lol.

Make sure to share pics when you add the decals. Would love to see. Also if you don't already have it. Here's the template for the sides of the iCade.

http://www.thinkgeek.com/files/11-10...e-template.pdf
01-10-2012, 11:01 AM
#19
@Lions
Thanks for sharing!!

All Sanwa parts now? Nice!

Which buttons did you choose? Sanwa OBSF-30? Did you sand the button holes as well? I am a little worried that these bigger buttons may not fit the casing as the smaller stock buttons seem to be realtively close to each other already... but obviously it does work, right?

As for the stick, did you solder the wires or did you use a screw joint / wire connector thing? How did you know which wire is which direction? Try and error?

Did you have to rotate the PCB by 90 as Nudgenudge was describing before in this thread?

Thanks for your help!!


edit: BTW, how do you like the Sanwa stuff in comparison to the stock controls? Is it worth it?

Last edited by MarkHerm; 01-10-2012 at 11:13 AM.
01-10-2012, 12:29 PM
#20
Quote:
Originally Posted by mremulator View Post
When you "rotated" the PCB, I assume the wiring changes for the microswitches? I guess it's as simple as using a multimeter to figure out which is which? I'm going to give your mod a go... also add a marquee to the iCade with a LED backlight.

*Edit* Also which stick did you order (8Y, 8S or SK?)? http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/or...ajoysticks.php
No, the wiring did not change. I found a guide on Shoryuken: http://media.photobucket.com/image/s...iringGuide.jpg
It's perfect to tell you which cables go for each direction.

For the stick, I bought a JLF-TP-8Y, no plate. I just enlarged the circle in the panel's plastic with sandpaper to fit it nicely.

MarkHerm: the buttons on my picture (and I'm pretty sure, Lions') are OSBF-30s. The crown is just a bit larger, but nothing too big.
Also, Sanwa parts are just pure awesomeness compared to the stock ones: no clunky sound, no deadzone.
And for the wires: on the Sanwa part, easy, I posted the guide. On the white iCade cables, it is written on the PCB.