I think those laundry-lists are exactly what a lot of people look for. As a creatively inclined person I understand why this is not something that might irk you. My first suggestion is to study some of the more serious game magazines out there (Edge being a good example). Setting the game in game- and/or media-historical context might inspire you. Another idea is to actually try to write entertainingly. You say that the majority of your work has been writing creatively. Personally I can see no reason why this cant be used in a review as well. I believe any subject can be presented in an entertaining way, and thats what the presenter should aim for.
